An unrelenting fascination with cemeteries

Confessions of a taphophile - morbid quirk or underrated refuge?

The charming Dunlichity church cemetery nestled in the Scottish Highlands

I could see the confusion in my partners face as we stepped out of the car.

It was last summer and we were on our annual visit to the Isle of Arran to visit my family. After spending the morning enjoying a coffee and stroll along the beach, on what was a rare sunny day on this Scottish Island, we had now arrived at, of all places, a cemetery.

His confusion only compounded when he realised that we were not there to pay our respects to past family or friends. In fact, all the graves were strangers, and we were simply there to enjoy the cemetery in itself, which happens to be a favourite pastime of mine and my mother’s (said mother has previously written about cemeteries here).

Although initially bemused, my partner soon fell into place beside us as we meandered through the headstones, stopping to read the faded inscriptions and admire the moss and wildflower species that had made this quiet space their home. The bright sunlight warmed the lush summer grass, whilst the chilled stone of the graves kept the air pleasantly cool, with the gentle wind carrying a whisper of the sea that is never far away on this island.

This may not be a typical activity of visitors to Arran, who are more likely to frequent the castles, distilleries and endless beaches, but this is a memory that will stay with me and, like all my cemetery visits, holds a special place in my heart.

To my delight, and somewhat relief, my love of cemeteries is not unique to my and mother and I. In fact, there is even a word to describe this attraction to cemeteries, taphophile, that comes from the Greek ‘taphos’, which means ‘grave’ or ‘tomb’, with ‘philos’ meaning ‘lover of’. Rather than this being a morbid quirk, taphophiles enjoy spending time in cemeteries so they can appreciate the history and architecture, as well as soak up the peaceful setting that is an inherent component of burial grounds.

There are many reasons why I feel a pull towards cemeteries. My highly sensitive nature means that they provide a sense of refuge, especially against the over-stimulating backdrop of cities, with the Old Town Cemetery in Stirling, the Howff Cemetery in Dundee and my local Old High Churchyard in Inverness being favourite haunts of mine.

Photo taken from my visit to Howff Cemetery last summer

As a writer, I’m attracted to the stories that are held in these historic settings. Even though cemeteries are always tinged with sadness, I enjoy reading the inscriptions and imagining the lives that these people may have led.

Finally, I’m drawn to the nature that inhabits these quiet places. As our green spaces continue to decline and become damaged by human activities, cemeteries provide a sanctuary for a whole range of wildlife, especially older cemeteries that are managed sensitively, and avoid harsh chemicals and regimented mowing.

Headstones offer the perfect surface for moss and lichen to spread, the minimal grassland management means that wildflowers can thrive, attracting flying insects that, in turn, provide a food source for birds and bats. These historic sites can also provide a haven for ancient trees, with over half of the recorded large-girth yew trees in the UK being found in cemeteries, the oldest being the Fortingall Yew located in a small churchyard in Perthshire (Scotland), that is estimated to be between 2000 and 5000 years old.

Although not everyone may have caught the taphophile bug, certain cemeteries do attract thousands of tourists, with Père Lachaise in Paris being the most visited cemetery in the world. Visitors are drawn to this cemetery by the opportunity to see tombs of iconic figures, such as Oscar Wilde, as well as plenty of elaborate tombs and mausoleums to admire (you learn more about this site in the charming book ‘The secret life of the cemetery’ by head curator Benot Gallot).

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Other notable cemeteries include Highgate Cemetery in London, which hosts multiple Victorian figures nestled amongst impressive Gothic architecture, Central Cemetery in Vienna, which is one of the largest cemeteries in Europe and has numerous famous musician tombs, and Okunoin Cemetery, which is the largest and most sacred burial site in Japan, and the resting site of Kobo Daishi, who was one of this country’s most venerated monks.

Although I would love to visit some of these high-profile sites, as perhaps expected from my introverted nature, my natural preference is to stick to smaller sites where I’m more likely to have the place to myself. I often research cemeteries I can visit before travelling somewhere new, as well as frequently veering off route whenever I see a signposted cemetery that I just cannot resist exploring.

It goes without saying that these spaces deserve our respect, for both those who have passed and the mourners that are left behind. But if you do have a hankering to explore cemeteries, then this can offer a wholesome alternative to the typical tourist attractions and a peaceful green space to connect with nature, especially if you live in a more urban area.

I warn you, you may become hooked!

Until next time,

Molly xx

About the author

Hello, I’m Molly, a writer, filmmaker and almost author, living in a Tiny Home in the Scottish Highlands. I share my journey towards living a slower life here on my Substack and on my YouTube, with my debut book ‘The Scottish Art of Living Slowly: An Invitation to Rediscover Nature in a Digital World,’ due to be published by Watkins in spring 2027.

I also run a slow seasonal book club here on Substack, where I publish seasonal book lists, monthly reading round ups, bookish themed videos and host a chat and virtual meet ups. For spring 2026, we are reading Anne of Green Gables (L. M. Montgomery) and we’d love to have you join us.